Fresh Thoughts Blog

15 September 2007

The Little Owl in N.Y.C.

Posted by Chef Paul under: Information .

Walking up Bedford Streets there are few neon lights, the sidewalks are narrow and well worn. This is a neighborhood and each street is has a handful of business mostly catering to the locals. You won’t find many parking lots here, none in fact, just small places with good food where friends like to congregate. The Little Owl is a great find and we were lucky enough to find a table at 7:30 on a Friday evening. Chef Joey Campanaro has created a simple menu of 6 appetizers, 6 entrees, 3 sides & 6 desserts. Keeping it simple, fresh and delicious is key to the success of this restaurant. You are greeted at the door by a nice young man, there are two servers, one busboy & three cooks in the kitchen. There isn’t much room for more and they do a great job at making their diners feel at home. Starting with a nice glass of Frascati (Italian White wine) and the Soft Shell Crab appetizer was a good choice. On a bed of creamy risotto tinged green, there were heirloom tomatos, asparagus, & dandelion greens, with the crab fried crisp & cut in half with legs in the air. Another special appetizer was the crab & shrimp stuffed Calamari with Broccoli Rabe. The restaurant has no problem with guests bringing one bottle of wine with them so a 2002 Jodar Barbera was on the table. It was the perfect pairing to the fabulous entrees that followed the first course. A pork chop 2 ½ inches thick, juicy and tender on a bed of beans & greens was a burst of flavor in every bite. If you want beef, the N.Y. steak with pancetta & radicchio had an amazing rich red wine sauce that had a hint of blackberry. Now would have been a good time for a nap with all the wine gone…but a long walk home, a little cigar, dessert and nightcap at David Bouley’s Danube was the perfect finish to the evening.

The little owl, 90 Bedford Street, New York City, NY

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